Cotton & Textiles

farmer standing in a cotton field in Ethiopia

Challenges

Social, economic and environmental issues

Cotton is grown in around 80 countries, and more than 100 million households around the world are directly engaged in its cultivation. The majority of these people are smallholder farmers who grow the crop on plots smaller than 2 hectares. Cotton is a key raw material for the textile industry and represents about 30% of all fibre used in the sector.

Conventional cotton production often comes with negative environmental impacts associated with the misuse of pesticides, fertilizers and water. Social challenges include poor working conditions and lack of living income, with concerns about the incidences of child labour and forced labour in some major cotton-producing countries.

Global trade structures are generally unfavourable for cotton farmers whose incomes come further under the threat of global market volatility. In addition, the garment factories and workers are then caught between volatile raw materials prices and stagnant retail cost prices for their work.

The environmental impact of the dyeing and finishing in the production of garments and textiles is huge. Inefficient and unsustainable practices mean that water, energy and chemicals are used irresponsibly and cause immense pollution and health risks, affecting the workers, environment and communities.

The textiles industry is also known for inadequate working conditions with excessive overtime, lack of fire and building safety, bonded and forced labour, restriction of freedom of association, and low wages, compounding already widespread poverty.

Solutions

Engaging all stakeholders in the supply chain

Solidaridad trains and supports farmers to grow cotton using less pesticides, synthetic fertilizers and water, and with respect for decent work. We also partner with others in the sector to create good infrastructure, and work on creating an enabling environment and market based approaches to make it possible for farmers to produce and sell cotton sustainably.

In the textiles sector, finding truly scalable solutions to social and environmental challenges can help improve the wages and working conditions of millions of people and help mitigate the negative impact on the environment. It can also ensure that long-standing issues are not simply exported to the new wave of emerging production countries. Moreover, sustainable practices can also be attractive from a business perspective, as resource efficiency, cost savings and a happy and well respected workforce often go hand in hand. We believe that mainstreaming sustainability into key product design, development and purchasing practices is a critical step forward in promoting sustainable practices in the global apparel and cotton sector.

We train farmers on good agricultural and industry practices and water stewardship, with the aim to improve their production while decreasing the impact on the environment. We work with wet processing facilities on better water, energy and chemical management. We also train farmers in producing organic cotton and production conform regenerative agriculture standards.

We promote decent work practices, fair wages, social dialogue and the recognition of the key role played by women in cotton production in the context of smallholder family farming, and in tiers 1 and 2 of the production of garments.

We work with farmer groups and cooperatives to help them prepare for certification to achieve a sustainability standard (organic cotton accelerator, regenagri, Better Cotton), to meet market demand. We also actively work with Cascale and their Facility and Environmental and Brand and Retail module towards reducing environmental impact and improve purchasing practices.

We aim to connect the farmers who supply sustainable cotton with market demand, and work on growing this demand by engaging with retailers and brands and their suppliers. We have partnered with initiatives like Cascale (formerly known as the Sustainable apparel coalition), Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC), Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), the Organic Cotton Accelerator (OCA), and other partners.

Effective multi-stakeholder dialogue is key to achieving the transition to a sustainable economy. Through facilitating such a dialogue and encouraging stakeholders to share their experiences, Solidaridad contributes to creating a common understanding of the environmental and social issues in the supply chain.

We support brands in their due diligence obligation by offering our knowledge, expertise and network for their risk assessment process and policy development. Our solutions can be implemented in the next step of the due diligence cycle, where brands need to work on how they prevent, mitigate and remediate the risks in their supply chain. We also support brands in their responsible purchasing practices for more information see: https://sustainablecottonhub.org/collaborate

Government and sector institutions have a role in making sustainability the norm at regional, country, landscape, or sector level. This is important in the transition to sustainable societies, where in due course, a ‘level playing field’ regulatory framework is to be created for the stakeholders that have already internalized sustainable practices, and for those that have not. Therefore, we work on (local) capacity building of stakeholders, e.g. NGOs, governments and consultants. We engage with government agencies to ensure that the initiated processes are both embedded in existing business conducts as well as scaled up to the entire industry.

With the organic cotton initiative in our state, practices such as making organic compost are emerging again and have proven to be very helpful as they are chemical-free and do not require any extra expenditure on inputs.
Roopraj Wamanro Milmile, cotton farmer, Yavatmal, India

Achievements

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Cotton farmers accrue regenerative benefits

Cotton growers in India are turning over a new leaf with regenerative agriculture. In Maharashtra, 17,000 farmers are regenagri certified with 25,893.37 hectares of land under regenerative farming. In Madhya Pradesh, 10,000 cotton farmers are on the way to become regenagri certified in 2024.
In East and Central Africa, the cotton, textile, and apparel programme provided training in advocacy, leadership skills, and the creation of Collective Bargaining Agreements (CBAs) for local CSOs and private sector associations.

Policy influencing

Under RECLAIM Sustainability! programme, five policies were influenced. Seven multi-stakeholder dialogues were convened and five recommendations submitted as part of influencing policies around labour and gender in Mozambique and Zambia.

Cotton up!

In the Bottom-Up project, we reached 4,315 factory workers with environmental and social sustainability training to improve the working conditions in factories and improve ecological conservation.

Through our Better Mill Initiative and Green Tanning Initiative in Ethiopia, we worked with factory managers and workers champions to sensitize 45,065 factory workers on occupational health and safety resulting in improved working conditions.

Safety first

In Ethiopia, 832 small-scale cotton farmers were mobilized under Dansha Union and supported to produce more than 600 tonne seed cotton (400ha of cotton), an increase of 375 percent compared to the previous season. Additionally, there was an overall decrease in work-related injuries among the 20 beneficiary factories reported, with 10 factories reporting zero injuries, while 10 factories reported 50 percent decrease in injuries and incidents.

Impact on various continents

In India, 5,500 farmers were included in the organic certification journey through the formation of 11 farmer producer organizations which were then connected to markets. As a result, the farmers saw a 30% reduction in input costs.

In Ethiopia, we trained 17,500 workers at 28 textile factories. Our interventions led to the provision of meals in factories, adoption of personal protective equipment, and compliance with wastewater management guidelines.

In Brazil, cotton farmers increased their profits by 18% despite poor rainfall patterns and lower farm gate values for cotton. Strengthening of local cooperative Coopercat led to an increase of about 10% in the number of smallholder producers supported through technical assistance, collective purchasing of inputs and collective sales of cotton lint.

Reducing environmental footprint

Solidaridad continued their mill improvement and capacity building programmes in China that work to reduce the environmental impact of the textile wet processing industry (which involves water, energy, chemicals and wastewater). Following the success of the project in China, we expanded it to Ethiopia, and are now working with various organizations towards scaling up mill improvement programmes globally.

We established two organic cotton and water programmes in India’s Maharashtra state, aiming to reach 30,000 farmers. In Brazil, we continued to support smallholder cotton production in semi-arid conditions. Six of seven pilot farmers who switched to irrigated production recorded significant increases in productivity.

Stimulating demand

Through a variety of our programmes in textiles, Solidaridad has been able to reach approximately 10 suppliers in China, 200 suppliers in Bangladesh, and 18 suppliers in Ethiopia. Our work with suppliers involves, among others, fostering a broad adoption of sustainable production techniques and working conditions.

In cotton, Solidaridad’s interventions also led to improvements in both the supply of and demand for sustainable cotton. We have contacted farmers, started pilots to test new ideas and identify opportunities, and increasingly involved brands and retailers. In Brazil, South Africa and India, Solidaridad supported the adoption of good agricultural practices and helped farmers to address issues ranging from water efficiency to gender inclusion.

In Ethiopia, Solidaridad made the business case for producing sustainable and profitable cotton in a pilot project while ensuring market uptake by local textiles factories. In China and North America, Solidaridad concluded a three-year project focusing on empowering women cotton farmers through promoting good agricultural practices, leadership and entrepreneurial skills.

From field to fashion

Solidaridad continued working in China and Bangladesh by bringing best practices to scale and contributing to solutions for complex issues such as cleaner production, audit duplication and fair wages. With more brands looking out for new sourcing destinations, Solidaridad scaled up its contributions to a sustainable textile sector in countries like Ethiopia and Myanmar as well.

Through supporting Indian farmers in adopting good agricultural practices, exploring innovation with supply chain partners in Mozambique, and monitoring company performance via the Cotton Ranking, Solidaridad worked on enhancing both the supply of and demand for sustainable cotton.

Solidaridad also signed the Dutch Agreement for Sustainable Garments and Textiles; a collaboration between NGOs, trade unions, the Dutch government, sector associations and fashion brands towards a more sustainable Dutch fashion industry, based on the OECD due diligence guidance.

Consolidation and expansion

In a challenging global context, Solidaridad’s cotton programme was consolidated in nine key production countries (China, India, Kenya, Uganda, Zambia, Mozambique, Senegal, Mali and Ghana), while working on expanding to Ethiopia and South Africa. Solidaridad was thus able to explore the opportunity to connect to the growing textiles industry in Ethiopia, and link up with domestic brands and retailers in South Africa.

Solidaridad also joined the Social and Labor Convergence Program, a close MSI collaboration working towards one assessment framework for social and labor practices in the garment industry, to reduce audit fatigue and work towards real improvement of working conditions.

Furthermore, Solidaridad further scaled up the Better Mill Initiative programme.

Strategic partnership and new programme

H&M and Solidaridad announced strategic collaboration to achieve a more sustainable textile supply chain.

Solidaridad also expanded the work in wet processing mills in China. After two successful cleaner production pilot projects in the textile wet processing industry in China, Solidaridad launched the Better Mill Initiative (BMI) with the aim of bringing the earlier work to scale and broadening the scope. The programme implemented activities in three result areas which focus on mill capacity building, multi stakeholder dialogue and outreach, and awareness raising.

New partnerships

In collaboration with partners, Solidaridad launched the Bangladesh Water PaCT: Partnership for Cleaner Textiles programme. We worked with the IFC, the textile sector in Bangladesh, the Embassy of the Kingdom of the Netherlands and H&M, C&A, Inditex, Tesco, Primark, KappAhl, Lindex and G-Star. Furthermore, Solidaridad also launched the Better Mill Initiative, a programme targeting sustainable textile wet processing in mills in the Chinese Yangtze River Delta and Pearl River Delta regions.

We also expanded the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) programme to Kenya, Senegal and Mozambique. Solidaridad won a BCI prize for changing women’s lives in Mali through facilitating training in literacy, leadership and communication.

Growing impact

In India, Solidaridad partnered with H&M and other brands on a programme to promote the rights of garment-factory workers. We also began a partnership with the Royal Dutch Embassy in Bangladesh, the IFC and 9 brands to scale up the programmes beginning in 2013.

The BCI expanded to Mozambique and Solidaridad’s ProCotton programme was expanded to Uganda, now totalling 28 projects. The Royal Dutch Embassy in Bangladesh began a partnership with the IFC, Solidaridad, and 9 brands to scale up the programmes beginning in 2013. Solidaridad’s Cotton Solution Network team for India won the ‘Proud to be an implementing partner’ award at the BCI’s General Assembly for the clarity, impact and originality of two best practice stories.

Learning and improving

Nijenrode University’s extensive impact assessment of Solidaridad’s Fashion programme (2007-2010) was published.

The BCI was launched in China, where it was the first initiative of its kind. Solidaridad’s ProCotton programme was expanded to Tanzania and Zambia. The Rabobank Foundation, co-funder of Solidaridad’s Cotton Solutions Network, visited India to learn about the challenges facing implementation of the Better Cotton System and Solidaridad’s approach to solving them.

Innovative approach in textiles sustainability

Solidaridad expanded its support programmes in Bangladesh by starting a cleaner production programme for the textile dyeing and finishing industry. This was carried out in partnership with the International Finance Corporation (IFC) and 8 brands. Solidaridad was also awarded a PSO for its innovative approach to solving sustainability issues in textile factories and dyeing plants.

Solidaridad joined the newly established Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) and was elected as a Civil Society Organisation on their board. In the field, Solidaridad was one of the first implementing partners of BCI, piloting their standard system in three countries – India, Mali and Brazil.

Fair Trade banknotes

The Dutch National Bank, Solidaridad and the Max Havelaar Foundation launched the first euro banknotes made from Fair Trade cotton.

Making sustainable fashion common practice

In the Netherlands, Solidaridad founded MADE-BY with the mission of making sustainable fashion common practice and guided by the still relevant principles of transparency, continuous improvement, and collaboration with fashion brands to achieve public recognition for best practices.

In India, Solidaridad supported the launch of Chetna organic, which is today a well established organic cotton community and business.

Collaboration takes off

Oro Blanco, a collaboration between Solidaridad and farmers in Peru, started growing organic cotton and other crops.

Sustainable clothing line

Solidaridad founded the sustainable clothing brand Kuyichi in order to introduce organic cotton to the clothing industry.

Next to social dilemmas, the use of water, energy and chemicals in the textile supply chain entails big risks for workers and the environment. Often companies lack knowledge due to the technical aspects of this subject.
Tamar Hoek, Senior Policy Advisor, Solidaridad Network, on the Solidaridad Wet Processing Guidebook

Where we work

Featured Programmes

Better Mill initiative

The Better Mill Initiative (BMI), launched in 2013 in China and in 2015 in Ethiopia, was initially a collaboration between Solidaridad and H&M. Other brands have since become involved in our effort, including C&A, Primark, New Look, Bestseller and Tommy Hilfiger. The overall objective of the programme is to improve the sustainability performance of textile wet processing in the fashion supply chain.

Through a combination of training workshops, on-site technical support and continuous learning for participating mills, the programme focuses on a holistic approach towards sustainability improvement with regard to water, energy, chemicals, working conditions, health and safety.

Bottom Up!

In this project, we strive to promote a sustainable cotton and garment value chain from Ethiopian cotton to European consumers, aiming to work with actors along the whole supply chain to ensure responsible production practices.

The project focuses on: 1) training and support for Ethiopian small and large cotton farms, textile and garment manufacturers to adopt responsible production practices, improve working conditions, and reduce labour rights abuses. This will enable them to seize market opportunities; 2) facilitating wider market uptake by engaging international buyers that are interested in buying sustainably produced cotton and garments from Ethiopia; and 3) engaging with European consumers to improve the knowledge and awareness on sustainability issues in the cotton and garment value chain.

Water efficiency in sustainable cotton-based production systems

In cooperation with the local government, knowledge institutes, growers, financial institutions and the private sector in Maharashtra, India, Solidaridad seeks to achieve substantial increase in water availability, efficiency, and reduced water stress for 20.000 cotton farmers.

The project focuses on: 1) the adoption of water-efficient production methods by providing farmers with training to reduce production costs, increase yields, and improve the quality of production; 2) capacity building of farmer producer organizations; 3) improvements in infrastructure, technology and landscape; and 4) generating market demand for the cotton volumes produced by project farmers by facilitating access to ginners and creating visibility for sustainable cotton from the region.

Establishing an organic cotton hotspot

To address the sustainability issues in cotton farming in the region of Maharashtra, India (mainly over-use of synthetic pesticides and fertilisers and related high cost of production and water shortage), the project enables farmers to shift to organic farming practices. Besides the environment the project also strives to improve the livelihoods of smallholder cotton farmers and their families.

In this project, 15,000 smallholder farmers have adopted organic cotton farming practices. Some results also include: 10% increase in net farm income; 10% increase in yield; market linkages established through Farmer Producer Organisations (FPOs) and Farm Support Centres; 5 FPOs profitable including 3 dedicated to organic cotton; and active engagement with state government authorities to promote the expansion of organic cotton production in the state. This project is made possible with the financial support of the C&A Foundation.

Improving Wage Management Systems China (WMS)

In 2018 Solidaridad and QuizRR developed a proposal, funded by ASN Bank, to implement a learning pilot on Wage Management Systems in China. The aim of the initiative is to empower workers and management of factories and to bring social business practices to scale. The initiative started in April 2019 and targets a small group of factories in China selected in collaboration with international fashion brands, including H&M, ESPRIT and KappAhl.

The pilot offers online support by QuizRR to implement their digital training tools on workers engagement and wage management as a first step in educating workers and management, creating awareness and measuring performance. At the same time, face-to-face training and guidance are provided by Solidaridad in a period of one year to ensure that factories actually implement improved wage management systems and other improvements needed to address main labour challenges on the workfloor. This programme was concluded in March 2021 and we are currently looking for opportunities to scale up.